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Volkswagen Repair & Troubleshooting Tips |
Symptoms of a leaky/bad Volkswagen heater core? The smell of coolant coming from your vents when the heater is on, an unusual amount of fogging of the windshield, and in some extreme cases, coolant will leak into the inside of the car |
Volkswagen oxygen sensor light has turned on Change the oxygen sensor, and reset the oxygen sensor light. Oxygen sensors are to be changed every 30k/60k miles depending on your car. |
How do I reset the oxygen sensor light The oxygen sensor light is attached to a small odometer which trips a switch every 30/60k miles. To turn the oxy light off, you have to reset that odometer. VW has two locations for this unit: Either somewhere along the speedometer cable, or as part of the instrument cluster. |
For A2 Jettas & Golfs: Remove the coolant reservoir to locate the box with the white recessed switch.
Push it in far until you hear a satisfying click. You should only need to
push once. The "box" is black, and the speedometer cable passes through
it. |
How do I take care of my Volkswagen to make it last ? - Check fluids often (oil, coolant, PS fluid, brake fluid, battery) - Follow recommended maintenance Change oil & filter 3000 miles/5000km or 7500mi/12000km with synthetic oil Use the correct weight of oil for the climat Change coolant when it looks dirty (or every 2-4 years) and use phophate free coolant mixed with distilled water Bleed brakes yearly. Use Dot 3/4, Dot 4 or Super Dot 4 fluid Change fuel filter (at least every 30k miles or 50k km) - Use OEM, MANN or Bosch filters. - Change the oxy-sensor at the recommended interval (if you don't you may burn your cat. converter which is A LOT more expensive to replace) - Reset mechanical trip odometers when the car is stationary - Warm up your car by driving gently until your oil temp is 80C - Check your CV boots for breaks often and replace as soon as they crack (this will prevent having to replace the whole joint) - Use fuel injector cleaner every couple months - Check tire pressures periodically. It's better to over inflate than to underinflate (I run 40 psi on my G60 with little effect on wear) - Garage the car, leave it out of the sun - Replace all gaskets and seals if you take something appart. It's a small cost in comparison to the cost and time to take something appart - Cars with solid lifters: Adjust valve clearances as recommended (if you don't, you may burn your valves). - Replace all belts every ~60k miles/100k kms - Replace all hoses every ~100k miles/160k kms - Replace vacuum hoses as they get stiff and brittle - Learn how to rev-shift to save clutch wear - Check transmission level periodically. Familiarize yourself first what that level should be for you car. - Stay away from low quality parts, especially for CVJoints and axles Do not use remanufactured parts, only OEM - Run your AC at least once a month for a couple of minutes to lubricate the bearings and prevent the seals from drying out |
Volkswagen starts fine but hesitates at cold. Runs fine when warm. Rough running at cold can be caused by a bad coolant temp sensor. On 8V engines the sensor is generally found on the coolant flange bolted to the head and going to the radiator upper hose. On 16 V Jettas it's next to the coolant outlet at about the 7 o'clock position on the rear of the head (tranny end) the sensor is a 2 wire unit |
Where are the timing marks on A1 & A2 Volkswagens? At the top of the clutch/bell housing you will find a plastic plug. Pulling the plug allows you to use a magnetic factory sensor. If you want to use a strobe, you will have to *unscrew* the whole plug assembly. Then you'll see a reference mark, and an arrow somewhere on the flywheel: |
Volkswagen |
Volkswagen engine knock/pinging/detonation Too much timing advance. Check Timing. Also check VALVE timing. Too low gas octane/too high engine compression. Engine overheating. Carbon build up on valves. An improperly torqued knock sensor can cause the sensor to not function correctly resulting in knock and/or loss of power. Failing knock sensor. |