F150 Check Engine Light - Troubleshooting & Tips

Everyone knows for sure that to drive in our North American
cities, we have to pass emission smog test. This is required
so we can protect our atmosphere and at the same time, save
on gas consumption. However, it is almost always a nightmare
to pass such test because you either have to bring it to a
garage or fix it yourself. Going to a garage is not a
problem if you have money but what do you do if you have to
fix this yourself? How do you start? What kind of tools do
you need? And where do you acquire the information to repair
this problem?

Sometimes, it is very intimidating to bring your vehicle to
a garage especially when you consider the cost: (1) cost of
scanning the codes including the initial one hour
troubleshooting which can ran you between $100-$150 (depends
on the type of vehicle) (2) additional $100 per hour for the
time the mechanic actually starts the repair. In the end,
your total cost can easily reach about $300-$800 to repair
one code. But this can easily escalate if there are
additional codes found.

So does it look attractive to fix it yourself? One example
on how a knowledgeable driver can repair his own vehicle by
using the check engine light displayed in his dash panel:
My 2001 Ford F150 Pick up truck has failed the smog test
and this code P0402 (EGR flow high) came on the other day on
my vehicle. I tried to fix this myself and when I introduced
vacuum to the egr valve port at idle, the engine quit which
tells me that the valve is OK. The engine seems to run OK
except this nagging light that will surely fail my smog
test. Is there a common fix for this code so I can pass
emission test?

Analyzing his problem by using my common fixes database, his
problem is familiar and this is what I suggested to him:
There is a common fix for this and most of the time it
needs the replacement of the DPFE sensor. This sensor looks
like a small box with 2 ports coming from the exhaust. The
sensor is located between the valve cove and throttle body
with tubes running from it. This sensor measures the exhaust
back pressure when the EGR valve is activated. The passages
(tubes) for this sensor can get cracked and leak to trip the
code but there has been a lot of failure on the sensor
itself. Also, if the tube has a build up of carbon and
restrict the flow; the code can be set too. To check,
measure the signal voltage of the sensor using a wiring
diagram. Max reading is about 0.9 volt and any reading
higher means you have to replace the sensor.

Being one of my subscribers, he saved himself the cost of
scanning after reading my courseware but had to buy a
vacuum pump for $20. He ended replacing the DPFE sensor
which he bought from a Ford dealership. He also bought a
digital voltmeter for $100 and after paying for the other
hand tools, his total expenses are about the same amount
had he visited a garage. But these are the major advantages:
he now has a set of tools, built up his self-assurance and
he is now ready for the next vehicle problem if it occurs.
Does this appeal to you? If it has, then you are ready to
hug the new internet miracle by providing you the latest
electronic vehicle information. You can read it at my blog
at: http://www.check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com


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